20090102 Telegraph Peak West Face FINALLY!!!!!!!

TRs for the San Gabriel Mountains.
Post Reply
User avatar
Taco
Snownado survivor
Posts: 6036
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

"One Nut Wonder", 640M 5.7 AI3

Image
ROute page: http://www.summitpost.org/route/476799/ ... 7-AI3.html
YAESHT!

Fourth shot at this route. Alex was interested in it and called me up, so we headed up there early.

Image
Either a funnelweb spider or a young tarantula at Cedar Glen CG. Really cool.

Image
Image
Alex moving up

Image
Myself in lead battle gear, full battle rattle

Image
Alex

Image
"...over yonder!"

Image
Alex

Image
Image
Looking up

Image
Image
Image
Approaching the crux

Tried to send the crux on the right side. Made it up a short bit with no crampons on, fired in a #4 TCU under a flake, and ended up backing off so Alex could try his hand/s at the left side crack.

Alex lead up, put a Metolius #8 curve nut in the crack, and made it up in crampons. Really badass job, Alex! I followed, fell three times, smashing my left testicle, which felt like I had my balls in a burning vice. This is where the route get's it's name. One nut in, one nut gone. :lol:

Image
Image
Alex sending

Image
Belay ledge

Image
Easy stuff beyond

Image
Us moving up beyond

Image
Image
Image
Image
Bizzniss

Image
Neat towers

Image
Alex resting

Image
Moving up

Image
My ass

Image
Alex's ass

Image
Image
Alex topped out

Image
Image
Image
Views

Image
Alex brought bagels, and tuna. Also, some oranges. I brought a few cereal bars and the other half of the Ritter Alpine Milk Chocolate bar I had on Lightning Couloir.

Image
Image
Ah, the descent! Do you like Buckthorn (or Buckhorn, whatever)? A lot? Well, look no further! We'll even throw in we submerged rocks and logs under a few feet of powder snow, sometimes covered in an inch of thin ice that supports weight for a moment! Claw your way through these friendly plants while the other bits try to snap your legs!

Kudos to Alex for postholing his way through the day. That part sucked quite a bit..

WOOOOOOO
User avatar
JMunaretto
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:03 am

Post by JMunaretto »

nice!
User avatar
406
Posts: 324
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:36 am

Post by 406 »

nice work guys.
User avatar
lilbitmo
Posts: 1092
Joined: Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:44 pm

Post by lilbitmo »

Did you get a chance to find the other guy's nut up there so you could return it to the rightful owner?

Great Job, Hope to some day get advanced enough to start doing pitches like that.

Lilbitmo :D
User avatar
HikeUp
Posts: 3932
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:21 pm

Post by HikeUp »

Two are redundant and unnecessary extra weight. :shock:

You guys are nuts...er...I mean crazy!
User avatar
Terry Morse
Posts: 126
Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:55 pm

Post by Terry Morse »

Nuts are overated.......look what Lance does with just one!
User avatar
Hikin_Jim
Posts: 4686
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 9:04 pm

Post by Hikin_Jim »

Cool schtuff.
User avatar
Taco
Snownado survivor
Posts: 6036
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

:lol:

Here are some pics Alex took...

Image

Image

Image
Bracing for rockfall

Image

Image
Image
The route
User avatar
EnFuego
Posts: 677
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:14 am

Post by EnFuego »

Nice work boys. The crux looks pretty cool to do with crampons - nice work Alex.

The whole route looks pretty awesome. How long did it take to top out?

~EnFuego
User avatar
hvydrt
Posts: 494
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 8:18 pm

Post by hvydrt »

Very Nice!!!! What way did you go down?????
Image
User avatar
Taco
Snownado survivor
Posts: 6036
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

Video:


Hvydrt: We went down Cedar Canyon or whatever it is the canyon that separates Thunder from Telegraph.

EnFuego: I think we started actually climbing around 7 something, and topped out around two? Something like that.
User avatar
yoskolo
Posts: 56
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:34 am

Post by yoskolo »

Byaaaah!
Nice Trip Report! I was on the edge of my seat!
Next time we need to rappel down though, that was some absurd post-holing!
User avatar
Taco
Snownado survivor
Posts: 6036
Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

Troof!
Post Reply