EISPIRATEN

Nice trip and as usual some unusual critters along the way! Koopa is getting acquainted with the local flora and fauna

WOW dude, you are an animal! Incredible route. I like your buddy there too - Koopa Troopa

Generally speaking - bowline is easier to untie after it's been weighted so it's best application is in those cases. Butterfly is a good tie in knot for the middle of the rope. In practice however, it depends on many factors. The more I learn about climbing the more I realize how complex it really is.

WOW that spur Patrick took seems like a nasty route especially from where you were standing.

Great story! And I am glad you made it back safely in this poor visibility!

I didn't realize how much snow there is! What a great way to spend the 31st!

WOW thanks for the report and photos - awesome!

Nice ice climbing and Happy New Year Ryan!

mve wrote: ↑I recommend the lightweight super slick system as demonstrated in this instructional video:

oh yeah, almost forgot to mention -- this system also serves double duty as a rock/ice shield it's called (Ice Sparta TM). And it's a pleasure to use:

I recommend the lightweight super slick system as demonstrated in this instructional video:

Nice shoot of the ridge -- good call to turn around!

Sweet! Nice umbilicals you rigged up there Ryan -- nice job!

WOW incredible makeover, thanks for the TR and the great pictures! Norma, hope you heal up soon from the rock-attack. And those rime iced trees are fully loaded :shock: good idea on recon/advance maneuver -- very clever and probably should be the norm for anyone going up there until the rime ice is ...

Nice! I actually have the dual version of this leash for the ice tools (aka "umbilical cord"). Good stuff.

Dave, Frank thank you for the great reports on the latest conditions!

Merry Christmas!

Norma -- that's amazing. I was so sure the snow was piling up top but not so ...

WOW

Nice climbing guys! Congrats on the new wheels -- looking good, didn't know Five Ten made stuff like that.

What a story! I am glad you both made it back safely and managed to do so on your own. Not sure how you made it through the night in low 20s -- that must have been miserable, no, scratch that -- horrible! That fire must have been a real lifesaver, literally. Thanks for sharing a great story Dave and...

Great detailed TR and pictures -- I've never been in that direction.

Awesome trek and pictures -- it's amazing how close that coyote came to you and it looked very relaxed too.

Great route Ryan and ditto on the picture Tim picked out -- it also stood out for me - kind of eerie and fascinating at the same time. You also always manage to find a creepy crawly out there that I've never seen before

Jeff, I've been very happy with Patagonia Alpine Guide pants: http://www.backcountry.com/patagonia-al ... -pant-mens They are tough, breathable and have great pockets that don't interfere with a harness if you ever need to use one. Not completely water proof though, but will shed water and dry very ...

norma r wrote: ↑

bertfivesix wrote: ↑I will hear none of this crevasse-less crevasse rescue training nonsense! We will DIG A CREVASSE!

kinda' hard to do when you ain't got no snow! have you seen Baldy lately?

We don't need snow! We'll do it RUSSIAN style: https://eispiraten.com/viewtopic.php?t=3188

I guess you guys are right, all the technique can be dialed-in and practiced without an actual crevasse and that's probably the most important thing here -- to learn the technique. One thing we can't simulate is the "fear factor" created by the crevasse: the bottomless pit, closing-in wall...

kristo, it'd be a bad scenario to loose your axe on a steep slope thus some prefer to leash it ... Another reason is for self-belay purposes -- say you are on a steep continuous slope and want to take a picture -- if your axe is attached to you via a secure leash you can drive the axe deep into the ...

Norma, last year I also made my own leash using a 1 inch tubular NYLON webbing -- it worked great with exception of one issue -- it soaked up a lot of water and was getting considerably heavier. This season I want to use a BD's Dynex runner with a few overhand knots.

I actually have one and kind of hate it -- it weighs 10oz and is really stiff. Good gun belt though ...