The crowds at Mammoth were nuts. We waited over an hour to get a shuttle bus to the trailhead. We planned to hike the JMT over to Duck Lake that first day, but after driving, waiting, and dealing with people we didn't want to hit a bunch of elevation gain and mileage that first day (plus I don't sleep well when I go straight up to 10k the first night) so we opted to hike into Iva Bell hot springs instead. I was instantly in awe of everything, though Bernd who had been there at least four times already was saying "yes, it's a waterfall - we'll see lots of waterfalls - you don't need a picture of all of them!" He was right! The waterfalls got much better as we went!
Day 1 was about 13 miles with not a lot of gain, and one steep descent. We saw tracks of a female bear and her cub, a Western Tanager, and a small rattlesnake. The last three miles to the hot springs are mild and shady, but rushing to make it there before dark we both got a little weary. We met a couple with a dog who had hiked cross country down the steep canyon walls. The dog had a limp that I had to point out to them, at which point they smiled and said "Oh she's just tired - she's almost 15!". This was super depressing to me. The dog was clearly in pain and who knows how many more miles they were about to do. I love hiking with dogs, but hate when people don't pay attention to the physical condition of their loved pet.
Anyhow- we got to the springs to find the spots all taken already, but a nice group of 3 people (and their cute pup Jasper who was young and fit and loving the hike) shared their site with us. We shared some wine with them and played cards. The next morning it was wonderful to relax in the hot water and look out at the views.
After that we climbed an easy ridge up and over to Fish creek. Hiking up this stream was pure beautiful, fun hiking with no other people. I was drawn to every great swimming hole I saw, but given a chance to stop for lunch and take a swim, I only got in up to my knees before backing out due to cold!
We aimed for the junction of the JMT and PCT, but when we got to the spot on the map, there was no trail junction. Tired, hungry, and a little crabby we tried to figure out what was going on. Bernd dropped his pack and hiked about 5 minutes more to find the junction, which obviously has changed and his map was outdated. We then set our sights on Squaw Lake, just below Silver Pass, but got to a beautiful campsite just below and figured that was plenty for the day. Bugs were out in force, so we went to sleep just as it was getting dark.
I had been worried about going over Silver Pass. Not that it's a tough climb, but I like to worry about things and don't want to be the slow person. It was no problem though, and we enjoyed the views. On the way down I saw marmots and we admired some amazing trail work on a steep section descending to Mono Creek.
It then became a bit of a race to get to the ferry landing early enough to catch a boat since we had to drive home that night. We were 5th and 6th in line for a boat that only takes 4 people. One restless lady gave up waiting and decided to hike the remaining 5 miles to VVR so that freed up one seat. Then we bribed a guy with $20 to wait for the next boat so Bernd and I wouldn't have to split up. Hopefully he enjoyed a nice dinner for his sacrifice.
Oh - if anyone knows what the story is on the mysterious rock cairn/gravesite near Squaw lake is, please let me know.
Random thoughts: I love marmots. I love that this spot is amazing but takes a lot of effort to get to, therefore limiting impact. VVR is a fun place and I would like to live/work there. Stats were 13+miles, 12 miles, and 9 miles or so, never more than 2k' in a day. I didn't really keep track. My pack weight was between 21 and 19 pounds depending on water/food. I lose my appetite on trips but discovered this time that with hot sauce I eat like a champ.
Trail:
[Steepness:
Sleepness:
Cuteness:
Soak:
Ridge:
Fun with Panorama mode:
View from camp:
Really now? It's getting ridiculous...
Grave??
Reflecting pool:
Silver Pass pano:
What???
My buddy:
More pics here: http://s484.photobucket.com/user/cougar ... 7406808436
