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Taco
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

Image

Image

Are you the dude who is using 3300lb SWL links in canyons? :lol:
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mattmaxon
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Joined: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:48 pm

Post by mattmaxon »

I think it is an unfounded fear, that the quicklink is inferior or mis-reading of the rating stamped on the quicklink.

Testing by local ACA canyoneers with access to test facilities have repeatedly shown these are not inferior provided they are stamped with the SWL or WLL

For those who don't know the SWL = Safe Working Limit/load, WLL = Working Load Limt

for non-life safety uses these are rated 4 times the breaking strength or the 5/16" quicklink with a SWL of 1500 lbs has a breaking strength of 6000lbs or 26.7 Kn

The confusion comes because climbing gear has the BREAKING strength as the stamped rating and lifting equipment has the SWL or WLL stamped on it

the monster 3/8 quicklink with a 3300lb rating has a breaking strength of a whopping 58.7 Kn

The proof testing done on climbing gear is generally to half their rated breaking strength. So a carabiner with 18.4Kn rating is pull tested to 9.2 Kn

Granted the quicklinks are NOT individually tested, they ARE engineered and have quality controls in the material acquisition & manufacturing processes.

Also the 5/16" quicklink has a rating (26.7Kn) almost 1½ times a carabiner with a 18.4 Kn rating and rates right along with a locking carabiner @25Kn .

Also considering canyoneering is not climbing and doesn't have the potential shock loads you can get with climbing most canyoneers are more than comfortable rating a 5/16" quickink at a 300lb static load

If you took a rock climbing type fall on a static canyoneering rope you'd be dead. If your quicklink or other gear failed, it would be of no consequence. (not that it would fail)

Any way the American Canyoneering Assocation teaches the use of the quicklink as long as it has the rating on it. Being an organization founded to promote SAFE canyoneering I, have no fear using it. If something came to light about the use of these that recommendation would be quickly withdrawn.

Using heavier than needed gear is mostly of no consequence except to the poor slob that hauls a heavier load than is needed and lightens their wallet paying for the more expensive gear they have to leave in the canyon.

The only caution I would have on the larger gear at the anchor is to be CERTAIN your block cannot go through the anchor. The error would be the last you'd ever make. Yes it has happened.
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Taco
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

Holy crap 58.7kN!!!! That'll stop a comet!

The threat of a biner block going through the monster 3300 link was spoken of before. I just tried to make it pass through and a large HMS biner will go right through with the knot slowly working its way through. You'd hafta double strand on one of these bad boys to be absolutely safe.

Thanks for the info, Matt. That is awesome!
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Elwood
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Post by Elwood »

Image vs.Image
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Taco
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Post by Taco »

LOL!
Abbeyclark

Post by Abbeyclark »

I right tried to suggest it advance through and a vast HMS biner give go tract finished with the burl tardily working its way finished. You'd haft mortal desert on one of these bad boys to be dead invulnerable.
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Taco
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Joined: Thu Sep 27, 2007 4:35 pm

Post by Taco »

That's what I've been trying to tell them all along, BUT THEY JUST WON'T LISTEN!

Ok, you can go now.
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